So typically, I start with a bit of a moan. It won’t always be like this, I promise.
I look back now and it’s all a bit of a blur. How did I end up there? What was I thinking? Did anyone see me?
A recent trip to America had left me with an insatiable appetite for New York’s exceptionally fresh sushi and sashimi and an uncontrollable craving for more lovingly-prepared steamed baskets of dim sum that, since returning to Derby, have proved cruelly elusive. Until, that is, I saw a sign, a neon glimmer of hope if you will.
Wokmania’s fluorescent pink promise of an ‘Oriental buffet’ served up in the salubrious surrounding’s of Derby’s St Werburgh’s church seemed too good to be true. Maybe they’ve got a sushi bar? Perhaps even an entire section dedicated to those tasty little dumplings? My hopes were genuinely high, but looking back now, I’m not sure where my unfounded sense of enthusiasm came from. I’d only had one beer.

The idea was to have a relaxing evening out with my girlfriend; a couple of drinks, a bite to eat and a relaxing stroll home. Not an unreasonable yearning for a warm summer’s evening I thought. However, it soon become clear that the buffet experience is somewhat flawed if you want to spend any quality time – or
any time at all in fact – with the person you’re with.
And so to the first dilemma. Who should go up and get their food first? Should we both leave the table and take our belongings with us? It started to dawn on me why this style of dining was so popular with groups of birthday parties and stag dos. So Amy (my aforementioned and extremely beautiful girlfriend) went first but due to the restaurant running out of plates, she’d pretty much finished her ‘starters’ by the time I was seated. So up she got again…and so it continued. I then found myself constantly dodging other diners as they tried to weave their way through the labyrinth of tables with plates stacked high with food.
Our timing didn’t wasn’t great either as, deliberate or not,
Wokmania seems to cater for two main sittings - the ‘eat around 7’ crowd and the late diners. This meant that all the starters had already been scoffed and anything in the slowly simmering main courses was seriously starting to wilt (as were we at this point). So ironically, in what is supposed to be a progression of the convenience food revolution, we waited patiently for the fresh trays of food to be served. To me, this defeats the entire premise of a ‘buffet’ experience.
I’m sorry to go on, but I will. Deep-breath everyone.
Most of the food was incredibly bland with not a shred of chilli, lime, ginger or coriander in sight. It was like a party thrown by Uncle Ben with every dish adapted to the simplicity of the English palate, a point only emphasised by the distinct lack of chopsticks, soy sauce, pickled ginger or, well, anything that would make your food taste that little bit more authentic.
There’s no doubt that it’s a cheap way to eat – our bill for the two of us, including drinks came to £30 – and it’s ideal for larger groups such as stag dos or birthday parties, but it’s dining out for the masses. It’s how cows, sheep and pigs are fed. Yes, it’s convenient, quick and cheap, but it’s offensive to all the senses.
I’m yet to try either Bold Lane’s
Goji or May Sum on Babington Lane but, after my
Wokmania experience, I might have to give them a miss. My suggestion? Try one of the pan-Asian open-kitchen outlets at
Westfield. At least their food is freshly prepared and full of flavour. Failing that, the
Thai Boran on Green Lane has quietly carved a niche for serving fantastically consistent Thai and Asian food with attentive service to match.
In the meantime, my search for those scrumptious Chinese dumplings, in Derby at least, goes on…